Hangboard Workout

Been a while since I put up a post for my climber friends. So here it is. Currently I'm in a bit of a rehab phase in my climbing career, trying to get back in the swing of things, get the fingers strong and in shape. Can't afford a gym membership at the time, but that being the case I've been doing lots of light hangboard workouts so that when I get into the gym I don't spend the whole time worried about my fingers.

Last night I go the idea to put a medicine ball on the chair I use to take weight off while working my fingers. Turns out it was a great idea, hence why I'm writing this post.

Here it is:
As seen in the pictures, place a chair about 1-3ft in front of your hangboard and put a medicine ball on top of it. During the course of your workout this is where you'll be putting your feet. The medicine ball is great because it takes weight off while still forcing you to activate your core for stability. It's one of the most realistic workouts I've ever done for climbing.

From here on out you can do any variation of finger exercises. For my workout I start by getting a good warm-up and continuing that into the workout by spending 20 sec on the crimps and slopers, avoid the jugs. Move your hands around as much or as little as you like and try not to use the jugs unless you absolutely must. I do the same thing for 30 sec. and then again for 1min. Take a break and stretch out your fingers and forearms.

From here on out add 30sec to each round. 1min 30sec, 2min, 2min 30sec, 3min....and so on. Continue this workout until you are forced to use the jugs for a rest. At that point do at least one additionally round at whatever time you made it to.

Remember to keep you feet on the ball at all times and feel free to move it around as much as you like just don't let your feet come off.